17) 1991. GROPER Street, Tin Can Bay QLD 4580

Leaving Marlin Way was difficult. Not because I’d grown any great attachment to the flat, but because we were moving to “GROPER” Street. GROPER. One who gropes. It’s not even spelled the same as the fish. THE STREET NAMES WERE SUPPOSED TO BE NAMED AFTER FISH.

Because my family members are all mature and reasonable and would never let a thing like street names get us down, we took to our new address with grace and humility. Nah just kidding, we all sulked about leaving Marlin Way 24/7 and refused to say GROPER St properly, choosing instead to only ever spit it out in a guttural bark: GROPER. That’s why it has been written in all-caps since the story heading. Tradition. Grace and humility. GROPER.

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I fail again: I can’t find house we lived in. Instead, here’s a map showing all the lovely street names available in Tin Can Bay. There’s Marlin Way, obviously. But Emperor Street! Coral Trout Drive! At the top there, Squire Street becomes Oyster Parade! Such magical whimsy! But no. We were on GROPER. I’m still not okay. I will never be okay.

While I had clearly failed as a casanova at Tin Can Bay State School, I had miraculously managed to find some social footing within the student body. In fact, I had had more success at this school making friends and not being a total outcast than I had in many years. It must have been the sea air; everyone was super chill. Even the three coolest kids in school—Scott McLeod, Aaron Hall, and Damon Stiller—gave me the time of day (I’m 33 and I still remember their names: that’s how cool they were.)

Perhaps this sudden rise to popularity—okay, popularity adjacency—went straight to my head. Because it was during my time at GROPER Street I briefly tried on a new in-school persona: hero. This is the story of the first (and only) fistfight I ever got into.

A new new kid, Justin, had arrived at the school. Quiet at first, he turned out to be the worst bully Tin Can Bay State School had seen in a while. And he wasn’t the bulky, push-you-around kind either. He was the mean, wiry, thuggish kind. He was a fighter; all hard-faced and scrappy.

But he didn’t scare me. I had no need to be scared: I had a close-knit band of friends people who didn’t actively avoid me; I was untouchable. Even though I was, at the time, the shortest person in our combined year 5-6 class (and I was in the year 6 half), I had the confidence, I had the calming sea air, and I had the popularity (adjacency) to entirely avoid being a target.

But what of those kids who were targets?

One afternoon I was walking across the oval and I saw Justin attached to the back of another kid, piggy-back style, and was hitting the kid about the head using the kid’s own arms. This would be the ultimate test to my new zero tolerance policy on bullying. Though, if I’m being perfectly honest, it was the first time I had ever witnessed bullying as opposed to being the victim of bullying, so I’m certain I stood staring for longer than I should have, just thinking “wow, so that’s what it looks like”. But I was snapped out of my daze by thoughts of all the times I wish someone had helped me when I’d been bullied, and decided I would do that for this poor kid.

I stepped into the fray. Coolly  and calmly. So cool. The epitome of cool. If, at that moment, something had exploded behind me, I wouldn’t have turned around.

Me IRL

Striding forward, I peeled Justin off the kid’s back and yelled at him to leave [whatever this kid’s name is, he never thanked me anyway so what do I care] alone.

I’ll say this much: technically it worked. I got Justin to stop harassing [whatever this kid’s name is, he never thanked me anyway so what do I care]. In fact, it was almost as if Justin forgot [whatever this kid’s name is, he never thanked me anyway so what do I care] existed. Because all of his attention was focused, with a white-hot rage, at me.

Actually that’s not quite true: most of his attention was focused on the punch he was throwing. Which is probably why it hit me so squarely, and so hard, right under my left eye.

He punched me so hard I lost my balance and fell over.

And this is where I mention that we were standing at the top of a hill.

I rolled down the hill, leaving a tiny trail of cheek blood and tears all the way down. Not that you’d need either trail to find me; you’d need only follow the sound of me wailing, sobbing, howling as I rolled. Like a cross between a car alarm and a hundred guinea pigs.

On and on I rolled, on and on I wail/sob/howled.

Would I ever stop rolling?

Would this indignity ever cease?

Still rolling, still falling, still tumbling ever downward. Gravity is a cruel mistress. Would this hill, a punched face, and the awesome power of Newton’s Laws of Motion carry me straight to hell?

No, I would eventually come to rest. But only because I would roll, spine first, into a pine tree.

pinetree

This is not the actual pine tree that hit me. I assume the pine tree that hit me was cut down. That’s what they do to trees that attack people, right?

Wait, there’s more: the pain in my face and the pain in my back were intense enough that I didn’t even notice that the force of my body hitting the tree had jostled out a dozen or so pine cones, which then rained down on top of me.

The good news is that Justin only threw that one punch. But that’s probably only because he couldn’t find me to throw any more: I was so far away. Down the bottom of a hill. Buried under under a pile of pine cones.

16) 1991. Marlin Way, Tin Can Bay QLD 4580

It had been a year since my great-grandmother’s stroke, and while she was doing okay, she needed constant care. It was time to think about moving to a climate that wasn’t so unforgiving on septuagenarians. My great-grandfather (“Dard”) asked her if there was anywhere she’d rather be. “I want to go to Tin Can Bay,” was the reply. So off they went. My grandparents were pretty involved in looking after them by this stage, so off they went too. Mum, Lauren, Tommy and I needed very little convincing to attempt to give escaping Dale another shot, so off we went as well.

The beautiful Tin Can Bay. No tin cans in sight, because the name has nothing to do with tin cans: it’s a bastardisation of the Indigenous name “tuncun ba”: “tuncun” meaning “dugong” and “ba” meaning “place of”. (Meanwhile: OMG did I just impart *actual* knowledge on this nonsense website? AM I ELIGIBLE FOR A WALKLEY NOW)

Four generations of a family, all pulling up stumps together and heading for the coast: It was like an Amy Sherman-Palladino TV show ten years ahead of its time.

A sleepy seaside town, Tin Can Bay was a world a hundred worlds away from Mount Isa. It was so beautiful. The ocean was close. The salty air was everywhere. Milk was still only $1.89 (as opposed to the whopping $2.24 it was in Mount Isa, which is the price you pay for being an 11-hour drive away from the nearest major port). And with the right antenna you could pick up FOUR WHOLE CHANNELS ON YOUR TELLY. Not two, FOUR. We didn’t have said antenna, but just knowing it was possible was enough.

(I’ll give away my bias right now: of all the places I’ve lived, Tin Can Bay is in the top three. And until I got to Brisbane [at this stage, still another seven years away], or to Melbourne [nineteen years away], it was hands-down number one.)

My grandparents and my great-grandparents ended up on a five acre property ten minutes out of town, while the rest of us found a small flat in Marlin Way, which: I mean, if you’re going to live in a town where all the streets are named after fish, you’ve pretty much struck the jackpot with “Marlin Way”, haven’t you?

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They bloody LOVE a big front yard in Tin Can Bay.

We lived in the house in Marlin Way on a temporary basis only. It was a sort of emergency housing. Why a town of 1500 or less had “emergency” housing, I don’t know. What kind of emergency could Tin Can Bay possibly have that extra housing was required? I can’t see the Cooloola Coast Flower Show being that big. But they had it, and it gave us somewhere to stay while a suitable rental presented itself. We were only there two and a half weeks.

I enrolled about a third of the way through grade six at Tin Can Bay State School.

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L-R: Lauren, Robby’s new(ish) daughter Taren, me, Tommy. Also pictured: the best school uniform I have ever had. The school emblem is seafood! And that was the FORMAL uniform! And it was in my colour! BEST UNIFORM EVER

Now, the same thing happened every time I started a new school: On the first day I was stared at silently, and any time from day three to day ten I was assigned my role by the student hivemind: weirdo, nerd, or sissy. But what of the days in between? Oh, they were a giddying, wonderful period—a blissful time of dreaming, where I was considered exotic and new. For up to two magical weeks the other kids would admire and revere me like some kind of dashing explorer from distant lands. I was John Smith, and they were all Pocahontases. (Pocahontasi. Pocahontodes. Pocahontae. Whatever.)

For some, “exotic and new” is synonymous with “desirable”. Which is why, half way through my second week at the school, Vivienne came over to my house. Vivienne was in my class, and also lived on Marlin Way. Out on the footpath, at some time between 6pm and 6:30pm (I remember because the news was on), Vivienne handed me a note. The note read:

Dear Chris,
You are the cutest boy. All the girls want to go out with you but I want to the most. Will you go out with me?
YES | NO
Vivienne

Now, I had had a girlfriend when I was in grade four. At Central State School in 1989, Sheridan L. (whom I’d actually met in grade two at Happy Valley State School in 1987) and I spent an entire big-lunch kissing in the beehive-shaped jungle gym. But that was a brief period of free love: I may have started early, but I had stalled not long after that and had long since pruded right up.

By the time 1991 rolled around I had no idea what to do with a love note written by a girl standing right in front of me. Which is why I flung the note over my shoulder and ran around the house in a panic. I’m not being poetic, I literally sprinted a lap of the house, which unsurprisingly led me right back to where I started: standing in front of Vivienne. Only now I was panting. The note lay on the grass between us, where I had flung it. Vivienne, either polite to a fault or slow on the uptake, looked at me expectantly and asked “Well?”

As maturely as I could, and with as much diplomacy as I could muster, I half brayed, half whinnied “NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO” and ran inside, slamming the door behind me.

You will be unsurprised to learn that I was quickly assigned the dual roles of “sissy” and “weirdo”.

15B) 1990-1991. Abel-Smith Parade, Mount Isa 4825

This is the second story. The first one, the whimsical one, is here.

It was the middle of the night, and I was asleep. Nestled in the top bunk, feeling on top of the world (it’s amazing how high five feet feels to a tiny, runty child). I was woken suddenly when something struck me on the butt. I rolled over and saw the offending object was mum’s purse. Then I became aware of the screaming. Mum was standing in the doorway, yelling my name, while Dale lurched and crashed behind her in a drunken rage, trying to pull her away. She had slung the purse at me (she has the aim of a sniper, that one) to wake me up quickly, because I was a shockingly heavy sleeper, and had been known to not wake up until physically lifted out of bed and into a standing position.

“CHRISTOPHER,” she was almost shrieking. “Run to the phone box and call the police! Tell them the address, tell them what’s happening!” Dale continued to try to pull mum away from the doorway, stopping only to punch the wall, stumble about the place and wail some more in his violent stupor.

Because nothing stops me from following the rules and being obedient at all times, I immediately opened mum’s purse to find the correct change—thirty cents if I remember correctly—because you never just take a lady’s purse. “NO, just take the whole thing!” mum yelled. (I have always possessed the unique ability to be simultaneously useless AND adorable.)

As I leapt down off the bed and ran for the door, mum braced herself and took three big steps backwards, crashing into Dale to keep him distracted, and distanced from me. I ran down the hall and out the front door, noting on the way that the house had been trashed.

As I sprinted for the front gate, Dale reached the door. “Christopher! Come back here!” he roared. I can’t adequately convey exactly how much of an obedient child I was, to explain why, when he yelled, I stopped. Dale was an authority figure, and he had given me an instruction. I was so conflicted. My insides tore apart between doing the right thing and doing what I was told. I slowed down and turned around…

…and then he called me ‘Chrissy’.

“Come on, Chrissy. Chrissy? Chrissy! Please?”

He had no way of knowing that (to this very day) there is nothing I hate more than being called “Chrissy”. Any impact he had on me as an authority figure evaporated. I turned and ran down the street.

Two in the morning, holding mum’s purse, wearing my pyjamas, running for the phone box. I was terrified but I was determined to save our family. I got to the phone box, dialled the number, and babbled incoherently at the man who answered. I said that my stepdad was yelling and crazy and he’s wrecked the house and mum is crying and she needs the police and then I gave my address and hung up and ran back to the house.

By the time I’d returned from the phone box, Dale was nowhere to be found. I would find out later he was simply hiding in the backyard, but at this point all I knew was he wasn’t there. Mum was trying, in that half-vacant way people in shock do, to tidy. She did manage to plug the phone back in to an unripped plug, and it immediately started ringing. She answered it, meekly.

“Are you Jenny?” said a male voice.
“Yes. What? Who is this?”
“I’m Greg. I work night switch at the mines. Sorry, your son called me,” the male voice replied.
“I don’t understand, he called the police?” Panic started to rise in mum’s voice.
“No love, he didn’t.”
“What do you mean!?”
“He called me by mistake. He hung up before I could tell him he called the wrong number. Not his fault, our number’s only one number off, love.”
Mum started to cry before the man could continue. “No hang on, I got everything he said. I called the police, they’re on their way. I looked you up in the phone book so I could check on you and make sure they arrived.”

As if on cue, the police showed up.

Greg didn’t give any further details other than his name, because he “didn’t want to make a fuss”. Probably also because he didn’t want to get involved in someone else’s family drama (wise move, Greg). Nevertheless; one of the nicest things ever done for me or my family was done by a man none of us ever met.

What Greg did for us was certainly nicer than what the police did for us: They gave Dale several cups of coffee to “sober him up”, congratulated him on his former football career, and sent him straight back to our house. He was back before the sun even came up: punching more walls and trying to grab Tommy (who was still a tiny fragile sultana) out of his washing basket.

When he finally passed out, mum, Lauren, Tommy (and his washing basket) and I fled the house and spent a few days in women’s refuge.

Soon we would flee Mount Isa altogether, and move across the state to the Sunshine Coast. Dale would find us, but at least we would be getting terrorised in a nicer climate.

15A) 1990-1991. Abel-Smith Parade, Mount Isa 4825

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That big tree on the right? I used that on more than one occasion to climb in the window having accidentally locked myself out.

We lived in this house on Abel-Smith Parade for quite a while. My baby brother, Tommy, was born in this house. Side note: if you’re a foetus and your mum has dengue fever, you are going to come out very early, and very sickly, and weirdly wrinkly…

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Tiny baby in a laundry basket looks like a tiny baby that shrunk in the wash.

…but with a bit of care, and a couple of weeks sleeping in a washing basket because cots are too big, you’ll soon puff right out and use up all your skin.

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It’s like having a baby brother made out of a balloon!

I have two distinct story-memory-things from Abel-Smith Parade, and I couldn’t decide which one to tell. So I am going to tell them both. One is whimsical; the other is…less so.

The first story will help explain why, to this day, I hate sad movies. I don’t find overt dramas cathartic, I find them distressing. And it all started living in this house, and it’s all Barbra Streisand’s fault.

So, it was 1991. The two lanes of Abel Smith Parade ran either side of a long, deep stormwater trench, which ran dry for the ten months of the year when there weren’t any storms (or rain at all, for that matter, what with Mount Isa being in the middle of a desert). The two lanes of road, the stormwater trench and the two chain link fences that traced the length of the trench acted as a border between the houses on my side of the street, and the giant discount supermarket complex on the other side, called Jack the Slasher (no, seriously), which also housed a few little shops, including a video store.

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They’ve removed parts of the fence, and the drain now seems to be just a big ugly trench, but this should give a vague idea of the “obstacle course” from my house to Jack The Slasher (no, seriously) which appears to not be called that anymore.

Apart from the broken gumball machine at the entrance to Jack the Slasher (no, seriously) which spat out mini-chewing gum pieces whether you put a 20 cent piece in the slot or not, the video store was my favourite part of that entire block. Every week, usually on a Saturday afternoon, I was allowed to go and hire videos. Sometimes I was given instructions for something mum wanted, but the “kid” selection was entire up to me.

During this regular routine, I think I rented every single Looney Tunes video they had at least once, and a few of them I got several times over. But on one particular Saturday afternoon, I was gunning to get one film in particular: Who Framed Roger Rabbit?

I had been obsessing over it all day. Of course, because it had been on my mind, Saturday took FOREVER to pass. The long Saturday morning crept into a long Saturday afternoon at a glacial pace. But finally, the time came. The house had been cleaned, the yard had been tidied, the dog had been played with—I was finally able to go to the video store.

And so began my journey across Abel Smith Parade. I loved the way it was set up; it was like my own private obstacle course paid for by the Mount Isa City Council. Check for traffic, cross the road. Climb the fence. Slide down one side of the trench, scramble up the other. Climb the second fence. Check for traffic, cross the road. Then? Bypass Jack the Slasher (no, seriously), GO STRAIGHT TO THE VIDEO STORE AND RENT WHO FRAMED ROGER RABBIT? AND THEN COME HOME AND WATCH THE SHIT OUT OF IT.

Because I was ten years old and had no perspective, as soon as I had grabbed the video case, given it to the teenager behind the counter so he could put the tape in, paid the two dollars for a seven day hire (two dollars! Back in my day…) and held the treasured case in my little hand, I wanted to watch it IMMEDIATELY.

Unfortunately, I still had to walk home. And within an instant the fun Mount Isa City Council sanctioned obstacle course became a NEVER-ENDING ARDUOUS JOURNEY OF TORTURE. I had to go all the way across the road, all the way over the fence, all the way down the stormwater drain, all the way up the other side, all the way over the second fence, and all the way across the second lane of the road, and even I’d still only be on the FOOTPATH. I’d still have to walk all the way up to my yard, open the gate, walk up to the front door and walk inside.

And even THEN I still wouldn’t be finished. I’d have to walk across the lounge room to the VCR, take out whatever videotape was currently in it, put Who Framed Roger Rabbit? in, then fast forward through the previews just to get to the delicious film itself.

It was going to take forever.

desert

Seven months later (or possibly just four minutes), I was finally in front of the television, ready to watch the movie I’d been obsessing over for about twelve hours. The credits rolled…

…and it was completely unfamiliar. I couldn’t see Bob Hoskins (whom I was convinced at the time was just Phil Collins acting under a pseudonym) anywhere. And I don’t remember my beloved mad-cap cartoon caper having Barbra Streisand in it? Or Richard Dreyfuss? Why were their names coming up on the screen?

Because I had been given the wrong tape, and was actually watching the opening credits for the 1987 movie Nuts.

I was devastated. Appalled. I had waited all day for Who Framed Roger Rabbit?. I didn’t want to see Barbra Streisand “acting”. And by now it was past 4pm, and the video store had closed.

The entire weekend was ruined, and it was all Barbra Streisand’s fault. Her and the sad movie she was in. I’ve been against sad movies ever since. Because they ruin things.

Also—and please hold on for this magnificent segue—I had enough actual drama going on in my life to not need any fictionalised drama performed by one of the world’s most celebrated singers.

Because we still lived with Dale. The second story, the darker story, features him. Surprise.

14) 1990. West Street, Mount Isa 4825

The haze is still present at this part of my brain storage, but I do have a clearer memory of living here.

That fence is the only thing keeping the dirt moat from taking over the whole house.

It was in this pokey, fibro house that I learnt the dangers of electricity, and how much of a no-no it is to stick a breadknife into a toaster.

First, some history: do you remember back when toasters did not have a multitude of buttons? If you don’t remember, feel free to gasp in horror; it was indeed a primitive time. Phones still hard cords, microwaves still had dials, and toasters were still just metal cubes of barely converted electricity.

toaster

CONSPIRACY THEORY: They’ve already perfected A.I. technology. Each toaster is implanted with it. That’s why each toaster cooks bread however the fuck it wants.

You had to use the same function to toast bread AND muffins AND crumpets like a common fucking savage. There was no “cancel” button, no “just a little more” button, and the levers were NOT built to be lifted so you could get easily get see/reach the finished product. Nope. You put the bread in the slot, pushed the lever down, and hoped against hope that what popped up again was toast. Occasionally it was toast. Other times it was charred blackness. Sometimes it was warm bread. One time it was a mouse (that’s how I learnt the importance of cleaning out the crumbs).

But. Most of the time? Nothing came up at all.

It is safe to assume that the insides of toasters in those days were filled with barbed wire, or some kind of special gluten-specific magnet. For as long as I’d been making toast—which, being nine years old, hadn’t been all that long—toasters were trying their hardest to not let me have any.

So what did you do when your bread got jammed? Well, you were probably already holding a knife in your hand, ready to spread something delicious on your toast: so you stuck that knife down the guts of the toaster and levered your bread out. For as long as I’d been making toast—which, again, nine years old—I’d also been stabbing toasters with my knife and angrily flicking my breakfast across the room.

Until that one fateful day when mum saw me do it, and threw me off my game forever. She screamed in terror and turned into a blur as she leapt across the room (a significant feat in itself, as she was substantially pregnant at this stage, and had only recently recovered from dengue fever). I’m not sure what happened exactly, except that when the dust settled, I had been picked up by mum, and was no longer holding the knife or the toaster or the toast. OH GOD DAMN IT: She had done that mum-Vishnu thing where she magically grew extra hands in a moment of chaos: she’d picked me up with one hand, grabbed the knife with the other, knocked the toaster out of the way with another (but not before retrieving the toast with yet another), and probably safely buttered the toast and added Vegemite and given it to my sister with a couple of others.

“Christopher, you must never, EVER put metal into a toaster!” she gasped between worried breaths.
“But that’s how I ALWAYS get toast out!” said my mouth, ignoring my brain’s message to SHUT UP SHUT UP.

Back and forth we went for a while, mum repeating that it was a thing you should never, ever do while I countered that it was a thing I had always, always done and couldn’t understand where this sudden from-nowhere danger was.

Afraid that I would immediately return to going full Julius Caesar on my toast the minute her back was turned, mum made a tactical manoeuvre. She went dark.

“Do you know what happens when people get electrocuted?” she asked quietly. Of course I had, I’d seen TV! They leap off the ground and electricity zaps all over them and their skeletons are visible and little bits of lightning shoot out and afterwards their hair is all sticky-outy and smoke comes off them.

grimes

“No, that’s just in cartoons. Real electrocution doesn’t look like that at all. The real thing is much nastier.”
“What does it look like?”
“I don’t know if I should describe it.”
“Why?”
“It’s terrible.”
“Why?”
“I don’t want to give you nightmares.” The trap was set.
“TELL ME!”

What followed was the most gruesome description of death I’d ever heard. Eyeballs melting, skin bubbling, fingers exploding, hair catching fire, organs turning to goo, clothes fusing to skin bubbles, teeth cracking, blood evaporating, pooing in your pants, and so on. I’m surprised I didn’t barf on the spot.

“…and there’s no zapping sound like on TV, it’s totally silent. Mummy wouldn’t even know it was happening until she came into the kitchen and found what was left of you.”

I was boxed in. She had combined my two most annoying childhood traits: unflinching curiosity and chronic fear of physical discomfort, and as a result there was no way I was going to put anything into a toaster ever again.

Not even a wooden implement.

Not even a rubber implement.

Not even bread.

It was at least a year before I had anything other than cereal for breakfast.

13) 1990. 175 Miles Street, Mount Isa QLD 4825

The return to Mount Isa was a sweet, joyous relief; only slightly offset by the fact that it was still just Mount Isa.

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Dustbowl, sweet dustbowl.

Full disclosure: I don’t really have a story for this address in this time period. The main reason for this is I don’t really have a  memory of this time period. Most of the first half of 1990 is kind of…fuzzy. I think the reason for this is that the time I spent in Bamaga, Yorke Island and Thursday Island occupied a great deal of space in the spectrum between “stressful” and “traumatising”, and the wash of relief of leaving and coming back to familiarity (and indoor plumbing, and medical care, and Kentucky Fried Chicken) completely overloaded my brain circuits.

In fact, all the stuff in the previous story about Lauren going into hospital with impetigo, and mum going into hospital as well with dengue fever/a foetus? I didn’t remember any of that. I mean, I remember the foetus, kind of, because I now have a 24-year-old brother. But all that information came from mum, while I stared at her like this:

I am very Glenn Closey when I’m flabbergasted.

I mean, it’s not like I don’t have an excuse: I had very recently learnt a new language, survived multiple ant attacks (and one shark ride), busted my face open, gotten scurvy and been molested, so it’s entirely understandable that my brain’s RAM was spread a bit thin. Hell, my MacBook shits itself if I try to run iTunes and Chrome at the same time, and there are hardly any ants in my MacBook at all.

SO, considering the circumstances, I’m giving myself a mulligan on this address. I did find out where we were staying: it was in my grandparents’ house; they were staying with my great-grandparents, because my “Nin” (great-grandmother) had had a stroke. The house was nicknamed The Grubbery (for fairly straightforward reasons: when they bought it, it was a dump – see picture), and we were there for a month or so.

Here’s everything I remember myself. Don’t say I didn’t at least try:

-This would be the first time (but not the last time) that I would return to a street I had previously lived on. This is partly because Mount Isa doesn’t have that many streets to choose from, and partly because with our rate of movement it was bound to happen eventually.

-I was at Happy Valley State School (again), in a composite class of year 4/5 students. Mr Sharp had gone! 😦

-We had two excellent teachers, however: both women, who would split us up into our individual grades when required (there was an accordion door in the middle of the room they would use to make the giant classroom two small classrooms), but for the most part we were all taught together, and they would teach as a comedic duo.

-The two teachers seemed like they were BFFs, and I loved them. My brain tries to tell me that one of them was named Ms Lawrence, and the other one’s first name was Jennifer, but then again I could have just read an article about The Hunger Games and be confusing myself.

– I had a white digital watch. I think it was a promotional watch from a video rental store.

– I was so in the habit of speaking Pidgin, it took ages to train my brain to stick with English. Mere months after the “Who’s on First?” routine I endured in Bamaga, I would go through it all over again, this time in the other role. It remained as unfunny as the first time.

– I had a ridiculous haircut. Though, having said that, this is technically true of every address I’ve ever had, up to and including the one I’m in right now. So that’s less of an impressive memory gem, and more of an educated guess.

– Since leaving Mount Isa, television licensing had changed, so the one local station that had been “ITQ” was now called “Ten” (a rural version of the “Ten” from the capital cities; now known as “Southern Cross Ten”). The advertising campaign had a jingle that went something like “T-E-N…that’s en-ter-tain-ment!” I thought it was glossy and shiny and metropolitan and everything I aspired to be. I sang it non-stop, and occasionally still do. This is a version of it, and yes part of the “rap” in the middle (performed, or at least mimed by, Bruce Samazan) does include the lyrics “Neighbours, E-Street, L.A. Law! Doogie Howser, lots lots more!

http://youtu.be/ymYoecJJtWY

You can totally sing along to it. I dare you.

12) 1990. Thursday Island QLD 4875

(This story comes with a Trigger Warning for kids getting touched inappropriately. If it helps, the kid in question is me and I’m AOK.)

It felt like 1989 took an agonisingly long time to end, but finally it did and 1990 began. At first, it was equally interminable, but then something happened: my poor sister developed terrible impetigo and had to go into hospital.

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Poor little leopard-girl. But check it: her legs match her pretty dress (lucky the dress wasn’t paisley).

Masig didn’t have a hospital; only a nurse’s station, and my grandmother (who was a nurse at the time) had quietly posted us so many medical supplies we were better stocked than they were (most of the supplies used to stitch up my chin after I split it open came from our own stash). With no choice but to leave Masig, we were finally able to plan an escape. We would go to Thursday Island and check Lauren into hospital: as soon as she was able to leave again we would make a dash for the mainland. It had taken months, but we were finally leaving.

Dale found out. News travels fast on an island less than 800 metres across, I guess. Or maybe he was just extraordinarily suspicious. At any rate, he bullied and manipulated his way into our escape plans: he couldn’t get on the plane to Thursday Island, so he navigated a dinghy across the majority of the actual Torres Strait, from Masig to Thursday Island, so he could meet us there. Not that it mattered by that point, the most important thing is that were leaving THE MIDDLE OF THE FUCKING OCEAN. Him accompanying us was better than him trying to stop us.

I can’t remember what meagre possessions we owned by this stage (my sister’s stuffed toy monkey from the above photo, whose name was Manta, is the only belonging of ours I can remember), but whatever they were, they were bundled up into that tiny, rickety old lawn mower with wings that passed for an aeroplane and flown down to Thursday Island.

#ThrowBackThursday Island

As it turns out, we kind of needed Dale, at least in principle: by the time we got to Thursday Island mum had to join my sister in hospital, as mum had been hit with a double bill of dengue fever and pregnancy. Neither she nor Lauren were in a state to travel, so if it weren’t for Dale, whose family/friends/whoever they were on Thursday Island once again provided somewhere for me to stay while they languished in hospital, I don’t know what would have happened to us.

Then again, if it weren’t for Dale, we wouldn’t have ended up in a house with the man who would molest me (spoiler alert).

With mum and Lauren both in hospital, I was stranded in a house with people I barely knew, alone. This, obviously, was mum’s worst nightmare, but she was stuck in a hospital bed; her body busy making exciting new fluids to leak internally while her organs considered shutting down and her uterus wondered if everyone could keep the noise down as it was trying to make a person.

I guess technically Dale should have been around to look after me, but he never was. I don’t know exactly where he would go, and by now that should not be any kind of a surprise.

So the family’s eldest teenage son, whose name I honestly cannot remember, let’s call him “Pete”, ended up looking after me most of the time. I have no idea if it was for days, or weeks, or even only one day. My memory of that time is hazy. But I can remember, quite clearly, the afternoon we were in his room watching the movie Porky’s II.

Yeah, I got molested to the backdrop of a shitty 1980s teen sex comedy’s even shittier sequel.

He sat on the floor at the foot of his bed, facing the television. I sat on the floor directly in front of him, between his legs. His hands were around my stomach in a loose, inattentive bear hug. This didn’t feel at all out of the ordinary to me. If anything, it was such a relief to have the first person in weeks (my own mum and sister aside) be nice to me. Everyone else either yelled at me or ignored me (and I had only very recently been completely blanked by Santa). So it was really an aching relief to feel safe and comfortable for once. Not to mention being in proximity to a toilet with plumbing. I was more than happy to sit in a lap and be held.

It is with a particularly tangy irony that I note that this was the safest I’d felt in weeks.

At an unremarkable point, while sitting there on the floor, Pete’s hands stiffened. The inattentive hug became more of a focused clasping, as if we were both acrobats and he was about to toss me into the air. He stayed like this for a moment or two, and then one hand moved quickly inside my pants and he grabbed my penis.

I jumped up with a startled yelp. “It’s okay,” Pete whispered. “It’s okay. It doesn’t matter. Sit back down. Let me do it, it’s okay.”

I sat back down. Partly because he was an authority figure who’d given an instruction. Partly because where else was I going to go? And partly because this, still, felt safer than any of the time spent on Masig. I’d recently had a run-in with a tiger shark and had smashed my chin open on the side of a boat and had regularly had to shit in a bucket; a horny teenager’s hand was nothing.

He put his hand back down my pants and spent a not insignificant amount of time…well I guess he was jerking me off. But I was nine, so nothing was happening, so I’m not sure if that’s still an accurate description. His other hand wandered all about the place, squeezing and poking and caressing, while I just tried to keep as still as possible.

Eventually he stopped. His hands went back to his own lap, and I sat there, not sure of what was going to happen next. He was fidgeting a lot behind me, though, and it was uncomfortable. I kept getting nudged in the back. I shuffled the smallest distance away from him, to see if he would stop me again. He didn’t. So I stood up.

His hands were down his own pants now (that would explain the shuffling and nudging), and as I stood up and took a step back he leered at me and pulled down his pants.

What I saw horrified me. I had never seen a grown man’s erection before, so as far as I could tell he was horribly disfigured. His penis seemed frighteningly large. And swollen. And kind of shiny. Was he sick? Had a bee stung him? Was he holding it too tightly? Did he have an allergy? Why was it that colour? Mine was at best a very very pale pink. Pete’s skin was darker than mine, sure, but that didn’t explain the weird reddish purple hue; a colour I’d never seen outside of a bruise. Had he bruised it? Was it like a black eye, only much worse? Did he need to go to the hospital too? Maybe they could deflate it for him?

Clearly the thoughts of horror that were racing through my mind also registered on my face, because when he saw how I was reacting to what looked like the world’s worst balloon animal, his eyes widened and he glanced away. Very quietly, but very curtly, he told me to get out. He never spoke to me again. In fact, I never saw him again.

I didn’t comprehend the full scope of what happened to me until many years later. It was fucking awful, but it could have been much, much worse. I wasn’t physically hurt. Mum and Lauren and the little clump of cells that would eventually become my brother all came out of hospital. We went home.

That I even had a concept of what “home” was meant to be by this point is a surprise, actually.

11) 1989-1990 (FINALLY). Yorke Island/Masig, Torres Strait 4875

With the 1989 school year ended, we were free to move on from Bamaga and go to yet another new place: Yorke Island. (Not because my schooling had been a point of contention for any of the other moves so far that year, it’s just that Yorke Island didn’t have a school.)

photo 1

Not pictured: indoor toilets (no really).

Yorke Island, now known by its traditional name of Masig, is closer to Papua New Guinea than it is to the Australian mainland—that is to say, it is a long, long, long, long way away from anything.

photo 2

I’m so glad Google Maps didn’t exist in 1989. I would have spent all my time on the island staring at this image and freaking out about how far away from anything I was.

By “anything”, I mean anything: up to and including indoor plumbing. Toilets on Yorke Island were actually, ahem, “thunderboxes”: outdoor toilets that are little more than a bucket under a seat with a hole in it. You may think your office toilets are scungy, but try sitting forty centimetres above the recent waste of at least seven other people, one of whom is a raging alcoholic. Did I mention the maggots? Oh, the maggots.

Masig clearly was not my favourite place. Let’s be clear: I hated it. Luckily the island is only 800 metres across (I have no idea what that is in cartwheels, but it can’t be many), so there wasn’t much to hate. 800 metres across, with no indoor plumbing and only one telephone, which was actually a public phone box in the middle of the island. If the phone rang, the nearest person answered it, and then went and roused whoever it was the call was for.

During my time in Masig, I:

—Learnt to climb a coconut tree. However, I was too afraid to let go enough to grab any coconuts, so all I could do was shimmy up the tree and then shimmy down again. Surprisingly, this is not a skill that has any lateral applications,
—Split my chin open on the edge of a boat during a bad storm, resulting in six stitches and a bad-ass scar (SPOILER ALERT: this would not be the only time I would get hit in the face with a boat),
—Had my first tetanus shot (on account of taking a boat on the chin),
—Saw the most beautiful beaches and clearest tropical water that I have ever seen or will ever see again,
—Discovered the truth about Santa,

We arrived the afternoon of one of those “Santa arrives and gives presents to the children (that have actually been provided by parents)” events. As we’d only just arrived, and no one had bothered to tell mum about it, we were unprepared. So I learnt Santa was a lot darker than his publicity suggests, and also he hates me.

—Got scurvy as a result of my refusal to eat anything except rice and tomato sauce (if you’re a fussy eater and you hate seafood, I don’t recommend living on a small sand island in the middle of the Pacific ocean). It means you get big gross sores all over your legs which have to be cleaned with hydrogen peroxide, and you become weak and kind of whiny: but I was already weak and kind of whiny, so nobody noticed I was sick until I got the sores,
—Watched the sun rise over the ocean and set over the ocean on the same day (800 metres across!), and
—Got stalked by a tiger shark.

Let’s elaborate on that last one.

Before you freak out, it’s okay, I wasn’t just paddling about in the water with only my nine-year-old limbs for protection; I was in a dinghy. I had at least five millimetres of aluminium protecting me, so we were safe as houses.

Well, thin aluminium houses in shark-infested waters.

There was a group of about ten of us (six adults and a handful of kids) in two dinghies heading over to Aureed Island for the day. Aureed was uninhabited, but it held familial significance for Dale, so we were going over to pay our respects.

It was about a half-hour trip from Masig to Aureed in the tiny little dinghy. As we started to approach the island, most of the kids (and one or two of the adults) prepared to jump out of the boats and swim the rest of the way; the water near the islands is always shallow, clear and beautiful, plus it’s always hot, so leaping into the water long before the boat reaches shore was never unusual. Suddenly there was a holler from the next boat: “SHARK!”

Shark? What shark? There was a shark? We always kept our eyes open just in case, but until this date I’d never actually seen one. But sure enough, about four metres behind the dinghy we were in, was a medium-sized tiger shark. And it appeared to be keeping pace. We slowed down our approach to the island to figure out what to do, which I personally think was a mistake: were I in control I would have thrown open the throttle on the outboard motor and not stopped until we reached the island, at which point I would have gunned it as far up the sand as the ridiculously small propeller would allow.

I’ll admit, what happened next was a bit of a blur. Once the shark’s presence had been confirmed and I had seen it with my own eyes, I very bravely burst into tears, convinced this killing machine would attack us and eat us, and I would spend the last three days of 1989 as shark poop. The consensus was it was not safe for anybody to get out of the dinghy, nor was it safe to just turn around and go back to Masig, leading it with us. They would have to kill it.

(Did my little nine-year-old self quake at the thought of this majestic creature being slaughtered? Did the tender buds of my environmentalist streak bloom right then and there? Shit no, I was sure it was him or me. I wanted that fucker DEAD.)

The handful of men that were between the two dinghies went straight to work with their spears. These guys, they speared everything. Fishing lines and nets were for chumps: you wanted to catch food out of the water, you needed enough dexterity, precision, and reflexes to stab it, from a distance, through water. It was (and still is) a terribly impressive skill.

Though it did jack on the tough hide of a shark. All it did was make him mad. At one stage he took refuge directly underneath our dinghy and my terror reached a point of solid molecular vibration: had anyone so much as touched me I would have imploded on myself like a white dwarf.

Eventually they got a rope around the shark’s tail and managed to get it up on the beach. I have no idea how this happened. I mean that literally: I have zero comprehension of how this was achieved. I was so paralysed with terror I can’t remember a thing. In my head it just says “MISSING REEL”; the whole thing is a blur. The next thing I know, the dinghies were embedded in the soft sand, and we were safe to get out onto the safety of the grou—“WAIT!”

Wait? Why was Dale screaming at me?

“STOP! FEET. FEET UP!”

I had no idea what the problem was. I could see the shark, it was five metres away, a rope firmly looped over its tail. But I was already riding a fear factor of 27 out of 10, so I dutifully hoisted my little legs back over the side of the dinghy. Dale grabbed his spear and went SPESHUNK into the shallow sand, then lifted it and SPESHUNK a second time. He raised the spear to show two enormous sand-coloured stingrays. Everything on them, from their weird, beady eyes to their impressively, scarily large stinger barb things, was the exact same colour of the sand.

Second close call of the day.

I swear, standing up on the sand of that beach was the most freeing sensation I have ever felt. I’d cheated death twice.

Sadly, the feeling quickly dissipated when Dale suggested it’d be a great photo opportunity if I sat on the shark’s back.

What. Even. The fuck. You monster.

I begged not to, but he said “come on, it’ll be fine, it’s dead!” and because I was a good boy who did everything he was told, I complied. Shaking with fear, I gingerly straddled the shark’s back, and a photo was taken.

photo 1 (2)

BRB, RELIVING TERROR. CAPTION NOT FOUND

And then it thrashed.

It wasn’t dead.

photo 4 (1)

NOT DEAD. Notice, on the periphery of the photo, the people scarpering? Yeah. EVERYONE shat themselves. I WAS RIGHT TO BE AFRAID. I am not on the periphery of the photo because I ran so fast I was well out of frame (and halfway down the beach).

I went sprinting off down the beach so quickly, and so outstandingly full of adrenalin, that I may well have kept running, circumnavigated the island and then tripped over the shark from the other side before bothering to slow down. The only thing that stopped me was the cry of “CROCODILE!”

I’m not even kidding.

One of the little boys was standing on the other side of where the shark was being held, pointing at a row of divots in the sand. It was a row of crocodile tracks. Specifically, one row of crocodile tracks, headed inland only. The crocodile itself was still on the island, and due to come out at any time.

Whatever we were planning to do on the island never got done. The shark, the stingrays, and the hunted-three-times-in-one-day humans were loaded up and taken straight back to Masig, and we never went back.

None of the days spent on Masig were particularly pleasant. But every day that something didn’t try to kill me was, comparatively, a fucking winner.

10) 1989 (yes, still). Seisia Road, Bamaga 4876

From Weipa we went on to Bamaga. Bamaga is the Australian mainland’s northernmost town. It’s right up there, right at the very, very top.

bamagafromtheair

See that red dirt? Know that red dirt. Make peace with that red dirt. That red dirt gets EVERYWHERE. At the end of every day I looked like Drax from Guardians of the Galaxy.

It is very small, but it has a school; a school in which I was able to finish grade four. It had only taken six schools to get there: Barkly Highway State School, Central State School, Balaclava, Hambledon, Weipa and now Bamaga. (I still got straight As, because despite everything I was still a tiny, tiny know-it-all shithead.)

Living in Bamaga was a challenge. I learnt a lot of things, usually the hard way. Things like: don’t lean on the trees for too long, because they’re full of green tree ants who can’t tell tree bark from warm flesh.

This happens every time. EVERY TIME.

Also, don’t stand under the trees for too long because the green tree ant’s understanding of gravity is scant, and if anything, half a dozen green tree ants falling into your hair is even worse than a hundred green tree ants marching up your arm.

greentreeantnest

HOLD ON YOU CLUMSY BASTARDS

Also, don’t shake or bump the trees because green tree ants use a special combination of teamwork and special ant bum-glue to stick leaves together and create large, elaborate nests; however ant bum-glue isn’t very strong so all it takes is a slight nudging or a stiff breeze to completely compromise the structural integrity of the nests, turning them into green tree ant cluster bombs.

With alarming frequency I could be seen running in a mad panic into the ocean to wash a colony of ants off me; trying to avoid this happening:

scarab

This is exactly how it feels.

Actually, a lot of the things I learnt were mainly focused on how to avoid being stung, bitten, scratched, poisoned or eaten. And that’s just from the other school children. ZING.

No, but for real, I spent a lot of time bewildered and anxious. This wasn’t at all helped by the distance from home, the language barrier (most people in the Torres Strait speak Pidgin, or at least incorporate some of it into their everyday speech), the mystery of what we were doing or where we were going, and the fact that I couldn’t get anyone to be nice to me. It wasn’t their fault: we were always relying on the hospitality of people Dale knew, and he wasn’t exactly the world’s most gracious guest. Not once during our travels north of Cairns did we stay somewhere on our own. So these poor people always had this annoying whiny white kid getting all up in their faces. I wouldn’t be nice to me either.

The net result was I spent every day trying to figure out my place in the world; trying to put my universe the right way up, and always failing.

The only time I really knew my place in the world was when a sign pointed it out for me.

photo (5)

Tan, thin, cool sunglasses. What a guy.  (The tan was mostly red dirt, the thinness was borderline malnutrition because I was too fussy to eat anything, and the sunglasses were mum’s)

One day—perhaps our second day in Bamaga—mum and Dale went to nearby Thursday Island. I don’t know why, but I didn’t know they were going. (I’ve since been informed that I was indeed told they were going, in which case I totally forgot, which isn’t out of the question: I had a lot of things on my mind, like where the fuck are we and when can we leave and why does nobody ever eat anything other than seafood has nobody heard of chips?). At any rate, they were gone and, apart from a vague idea that people often went to “T.I.” for the day, I had no idea where they were.

I spent the day in the care of some woman. I can’t remember who she was, but she was courteous to me, if not openly pleasant. She gave me a late breakfast, let me read for a little while, and then took me for a walk to the town’s only set of shops.

During the walk back from the shops, it started to occur to me that my mother had been absent for longer than I was happy with. But I was determined to be a big grown-up boy about it. So, while nonchalantly dragging a stick through the dirt as we walked, I casually asked: “Is my mum coming back today?”

“Wa…?” came the reply. I tried again.

“Is mum with Dale?”
“Wa?”
“Did mum go with Dale?”
“Wa?”
“Dale. Did he go with mum somewhere?”
“Wa?”

This went on a few more times. I just kept asking the same question over and over. I was tenacious, but not imaginative.

“Is my mum coming back today?”
“Wa?”
“Is my mum coming back TODAY?”
“Wa?”
“Is my mum coming BACK today?”
“Wa?”
“Is my mum COMING back today?”
“Wa?”
“Is my MUM coming back today?”
“Wa?”
“Is MY mum coming back today?”
“Wa?”
“IS my MUM coming BACK toDAY?”
“Wa?”

All the while I was trying to figure out in my little head what this woman’s game was. Was she deaf? We had communicated alright, if sparsely, earlier in the day. Was she unable to speak English? I had heard her speak plenty of unfollowable Pidgin, but again, we had come this far. Was she just tormenting me? This was possible; I was only young but I was starting to learn that not all grown-ups are nice people. I just couldn’t tell what her angle was.

Eventually it got too much. I didn’t want to cry, but when that first swell of emotion hits that threshold between the chest and the throat there’s really nothing you can do. I stopped walking and let the tears come. After the first wave of blubbering had crashed I took a deep breath and screamed at the woman.

“TELL ME WHERE MY MUM IS RIGHT NOW!!”

The woman suddenly realised what was wrong. She grabbed me and hugged me and said “HEY HEY, BOY. ‘WA’ MEANS YES.’”

She’d been speaking Pidgin the whole time.

She spent the rest of the afternoon teaching me words I would probably need to sabe (know): the main one among them being wanem, which means “what?”, which I would use five hundred thousand times over the next few months. She taught me how to properly ask when (wataim) my mum (ama) was returning (kam bai’gen). She then took me back aus (home) for kaikai (food) which I steadfastly refused to kaikai (eat) because I was being a fussy little shit (fussy little shit).

I take back what I wrote earlier: I got one person to be nice to me. Thanks, lady whom I’ve almost entirely forgotten: you were the nicest person I met the entire time I lived that far north. You taught me how to communicate so I wouldn’t feel quite so alone, and kept me distracted enough so that I was able to spend at least one entire day not getting rained on by green tree ants.

9) 1989. ??? Street, Weipa QLD 4874

Triple question marks again. But this one isn’t my memory’s fault: We were only in this next place for two days. I don’t think we ever learnt what the address even was, let alone be able to remember it twenty-five years later.

As the whole point of this project is “sixty stories from sixty addresses”, you already know we didn’t stay in ??? Street in Edmonton. Even though the house was practically a mansion, we had Robby living with us being both an excellent person and a live-in nanny, and the local school didn’t entirely suck; we didn’t stay. Why?

The answer is: Dale. Every inexplicable decision from now until about 1998 can be answered thusly: Dale.

I know now—but did not know at the time—that Dale was a violent, controlling drunk. Well, I knew the drunk part: that’s much harder to hide, but I wasn’t aware of the other, more despicable depths of his nature. It was hidden from me alarmingly well, and for the first few years he was never aggressive towards me in any way. In fact, I felt very close to Dale for a time. This in itself makes the violence he inflicted elsewhere all the more insidious. I won’t be writing too much on the details, as those stories are my mother’s to tell, not mine; but she has, for the purposes of this blog, given me some details with permission to repeat them.

We moved north because we had no choice. We were entirely at the mercy of Dale’s whims. We’d already moved away from family in Mount Isa, and had no real ties in Cairns. He then made us financially dependent on him: Mum lost her job as the office manager of a car dealership because Dale would skulk around the premises all day, checking to see if she was talking to any “strange men”. Mum was given an ultimatum: “he goes or you go”, and if you don’t understand why that’s not technically a choice then you need to read some literature on domestic violence situations. She quietly resigned, and another tie to the outside world was severed.

With no family, no money, and no autonomy, Dale was in complete control. And we were headed north. Again, I didn’t realise how dire this situation was; to me it was just another cross-country adventure.

Though I would soon learn it was a pretty shitty adventure.

So, we leave Edmonton. Robby did not come with us: I don’t know why specifically, but one can only assume she heard the plan, thought about it for 0.000002 seconds, went “yeah, nah” and bounced the fuck outta there. Because she is smart. The four of us that remained clambered into Dale’s Nissan Navara—which didn’t have any backseats, can I just point out: only a “cavity” covered in blankets my sister and I perched uncomfortably on (I believe it’s called a “king cab”?)—and headed north, to the bewildering wilderness of Cape York Peninsula.

See that bit between the door and the trailer? THAT is where Lauren and I perched for the entire drive.

See that bit between the door and the trailer? THAT is where Lauren and I perched for the entire drive. Also, the missing front wheel? SPOILER. Keep reading.

Cape York. Land of long, unbending, unsealed roads. Low, dense scrub as far as the eye can see, split right down the middle by a single, unbroken corrugated dirt road.

This. For hours and hours and hours and hours and hours.

Everything about the area is ominous. Abandoned cars dot the landscape in an ominous manner. Wooden signs over rivers ominously warn of that river’s connection to an estuary, and the subsequent ominous danger of crocodiles. Anthills loom so ominously tall you can use them as cover to take a shit in complete—if ominous—privacy (THIS IS IMPORTANT, because if you take cover behind a tiny little shrub instead, your mother may well take a photo of you, mid-poop, for laughs).

Yes, I learnt this lesson the hard way.

Yes, I learnt this lesson the hard way.

Weipa, which is where we ended up (and am counting as an address, because by the time we got there it was the first house we’d been inside of in a week), was actually our third stop. Our first stop was a solitary roadhouse by the Archer river which sold a burger known as the Archer Burger. It was shockingly, devastatingly, inimitably tasty. Or maybe that’s just because I’d just spent who-knows how long wedged behind a bucket seat on a rolled up towel driving along hundreds of kilometres of corrugated dirt road, having not seen another living soul. Maybe it was like how McDonald’s tastes delicious when you’re hungover. All I know is that I’ve never had anything as delicious as that burger in my life since.

Mum just looooves photographing me with food either going in or coming out, huh?

Our second stop was in a weird hamlet called Coen. We weren’t going to stop there, we were going to drive on, but on our way out of town (where we drove past THIS creepy sight)…

Nice park, asshole.

…our car broke. Not broke down; just broke. The entire front axle got munted. We had to get a tow back into Coen, where we ended up staying two nights.

Oh! And the creepy backed-up-a-tree car? On the way back, we discovered it had disappeared. There was not a single trace of it. So obviously we were chuffed as fuck to spend 48 hours stranded in the area with a busted car. There’s a reason I can’t watch the movie Wrong Turn without violent sense-memory flashbacks.

Obviously, I’m here to tell the tale: we didn’t get chopped up by mountain men. We did in fact make it out of Coen almost entirely unscathed (though I would still very much like to know where the fuck that car went). Eventually we ended up in Weipa, which, almost 900 words in, is where this story was supposed to start. Sorry about that.

After the roadhouse on the Archer river and the Eli Roth-esque Coen, Weipa seemed like a thriving city. We were so happy to see paved roads. All six of them. We stopped, we stayed with some people, we looked briefly for a house in which to live, I enrolled in the local school…and two days later we left again. As before, I don’t know why any of this happened, I just know we didn’t really have a choice.

So, the people with whom we stayed: were they friends? Family members? Who were these people? I had no idea. All I know is they had a house that was probably quite big for them, but with four extra people jammed in it suddenly became tight and cramped. I know that our welcome was tenuous at best, and I know that the bathroom was always partially submerged in water. Always. A centimetre or two of water across the entire floor. It made going to the bathroom extremely uncomfortable, and taking a bath downright confusing.

I remember being mortified that there was a chance I was standing in other people’s pee (or worse), and testing the toilet to see if the water flowed out of the bowl. It did not. It came from somewhere else (or at least, leaked from a different part of the toilet). I tested the sink: it drained like it was supposed to, as did the shower. I never found out where the water came from.

Compared with what was to come next, living in this house would be the most comfortable I would feel until well until into the next year. And this was a house with so much standing water in it, you had to go outside to get away from the mosquitoes. There’s a reason I can’t watch the music video for Shania Twain’s “Don’t Be Stupid” without violent sense-memory flashbacks.